Here is a meticulous step-by-step process for PureBuild application. Our focus will be on both E-file and manual preparation methods to ensure you get the best results from this nail artistry technique.
The Preparatory Stage:
Our nail preparation process commences with dehydrating all nails using lint-free wipes and 100% pure acetone. This is to ensure the complete removal of oils or residues that could potentially hinder the application of builder gels. Special attention is given to sidewalls, the cuticle area, and underneath the free edge.
For manual preparation, we start by gently pushing back the cuticles, thereby creating more room to work on the nail plate. The process aims to remove any non-living tissue on the nail plate. The tools used in manual preparation should be held like a pencil - the grip should be light yet firm, enabling the tool to glide over the nail plate easily. Remember, the entire process should not cause any discomfort to the client.
A sharp square tool is then used to scrape off any non-living tissue on the nail plate surface. This tool must be handled with care to avoid hurting the client, especially near the upper neck eponychium cuticle area. To remove non-living tissue around the sidewalls and cuticles, a spoon or paddle type tool is utilized in a gentle buffing motion.
The final stage of manual prep involves using nippers to remove non-living tissue, which is usually lighter in color and dry. One key note here: only the nonliving dry tissue and hangnails should be removed, leaving the protective eponychium intact.
Once the cuticle prep is complete, the nails are dehydrated again with 100% Acetone. Then the surface of the nail plate is buffed gently using a 150 Grit file. This step is crucial for adhesion, creating a rougher surface for the builder gel to grip onto. It's also important to be careful not to cause any abrasions or cuts on the cuticle area or the sidewalls.
E-file prep starts with a flame bit, which helps lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. The process is similar to manual cuticle pushing, but performed using an E-file. It's important to remember that E-files should only be used by those trained in their operation to prevent accidents. The process is then repeated using a barrel bit, to prep the nail plate and exfoliate the surrounding skin. Again, the nails are dehydrated with 100% Acetone, then etched using a 150 grit sanding band.
Application of Builder Gels:
The initial layer of Pure Build, referred to as the 'paper layer,' is applied as a thin layer over all the nails, and each edge is capped. This is done to ensure the longevity of the manicure. The application of the structure layer comes next; an appropriately sized bead is placed in the center of the nail, pushed up towards the cuticle, and then floated down towards the free edge in a zigzag motion.
A perfect structure ensures the PureBuild's strength and longevity. Ideally, the builder should be thin at the cuticle, thickest at the center (the apex area), and thin again at the free edge. Once all the nails have the PureBuild applied, they are cured for another 60 seconds.
Once the nails are thoroughly filed and prepped, they should look a bit roughened and ready for the builder application. If you've done a great job in shaping them, even with a 150 Grit file, you may not need much work. However, it's still critical to remove any residual oils or debris. Therefore, another round of dehydrating the nails with 100% Acetone is a must.
The PureBuild Application Process
With the nail beds in perfect shape, it's time to introduce the PureBuild system. The application starts with a layer of complete base. This requires careful application, with a minimal amount of product on the brush, scrubbing it into the nail plate. It's essential to make sure that the entire nail is coated and the free edge is capped. This step is then repeated for all the fingers. Once complete, cure the base under the lamp for 60 seconds. Keep in mind, curing times depend on the type of lamp you're using. The specifics shared in this guide are based on the Hohner cordless cube lamp.
After curing the complete base, apply PureBuild Tender in a paper-thin layer. This thin application of PureBuild is referred to as the paper layer because of its extremely thin nature. Much like the base, this layer also needs to be capped at the free edge for an enduring manicure.
Capping the edges, as explained using the cling wrap example, is an essential step. Imagine a glass dish you wish to cover with cling wrap. If you just place the cling wrap on top of the dish, it will merely float there with nothing to grip onto. But if you stretch your cling wrap over the edge of the dish, it will stay in place by holding onto the edges. The same principle applies to your manicure. Cap the edges for durability and longevity.
Next, apply the structure layer. This layer is a tad thicker and requires precision. Place an appropriately sized bead in the center of the nail, push it towards the cuticle, then float it down in a zigzag motion towards the free edge. You can experiment with different methods as everyone has their preferred way of applying this layer.
Turn the hand upside down to pull the apex down and create a better structure. After that, clean up the cuticle area with a liner brush, draw the product down the sidewalls, and cap the free edge. Cure each nail for 30 seconds before moving to the next nail to prevent the product from shifting.
The goal of the structure layer is to create a balanced distribution of the product - thin at the cuticle, thickest at the center (the apex area), and thinner again at the free edge. This structure provides the strength needed for the PureBuild. After finishing this layer, cure it for an additional 60 seconds.
The Finishing Touches
For the final aesthetics, you can apply a detail paint. In this tutorial, the "low detail paint" from the Aurora collection was used to give the PureBuild an iridescent and reflective glow. The large flat gel brush is an excellent tool for gel polishes or detail paints because it gets really close to the cuticle without causing any flooding. Cure the detail paint under the lamp for 60 seconds.
The last step involves the application of a high shine topcoat. This topcoat should be neither too thin nor too thick. It should be just enough to coat the whole of the nail and cap the free edge. Cure the topcoat under the lamp for 60 seconds.
And there you have it - a complete PureBuild nail application tutorial from start to finish. It is a meticulous process that requires precision and care, but the results are well worth the effort.
Check out this instagram live where Charlotte, the co founder of HONA gives an in depth tutorial on how to prep the HONA way and PureBuild application.