Hello, Nail Art Lovers! Welcome back to another nail art tutorial. Today, we delve deep into everything about infills. With the right knowledge and tools, you can achieve salon-quality results right from your home. So, without further ado, let's dive right in!
The Importance of Preparation
The first step in the infill process is prepping your nails. This time around, we'll use an E file, although manual prep tools work perfectly well, too. You can find a comprehensive tutorial on manual prep tools on our website.
Begin by removing any gel polish and much of the bulk of the builder. Use a barrel bit for this purpose, focusing on removing most of the apex. The reason for this is that as the nail grows, the apex shifts further down, causing an imbalance in your nails. By removing some of the apex and keeping most of the builder, you can restore the balance.
Balancing the Nail
We've mentioned nail balance in our previous videos. Here's a quick recap: an ideal nail structure should be thinnest at the cuticle, thickest at the apex, and thin again at the free edge. As the nail grows, this balance is disrupted, leading to potential breakages and discomfort for the wearer. Debulking the apex enables us to rebalance the nail, ensuring optimal structure and comfort. Although this process can be done manually, using an E file makes the process quicker and easier. It's important to remember that using an E file requires training and practice to avoid damage to your nails.
Next, it's time to address the cuticles. This step prepares the nail for the infill and ensures the cuticle tool can sit flush against the nail plate. Begin by using a cuticle bit from the center of the nail down the left-hand side. This lifts the cuticle away from the nail plate. Then, repeat the process on the right-hand side.
After lifting the cuticles, use a finer grit cuticle barrel bit to exfoliate the surrounding skin and nail plate, removing any non-living tissue. This technique is particularly effective for hard-to-reach areas, like the sidewalls.
The Detailing Stage
Once you've exfoliated the nails, go in with nippers to remove any remaining non-living tissue. Differentiate between living and non-living tissue by color - non-living tissue tends to be lighter and drier.
Afterwards, reduce the nail length according to your client's preference using an E file. Then, using a HONA 240 grit file, reshape the nail into an almond shape. Start from the left side, move towards the center, and repeat from the right side. A softer grit file reduces the risk of damaging the natural nail, especially where the builder is thinner at the free edge.
The Infill Process
With the prep work completed, it's time to start the infill process. Begin by applying a thin layer of complete base, covering the entire nail plate and capping the free edge. Cure each nail under the lamp for 60 seconds.
Next, apply a thin layer of PureBuild - what we like to call the "paper layer". This improves adhesion and is equally important for infills as for full applications. After applying the paper layer, cure the nails for another 60 seconds.
For the final step, apply a bead of PureBuild for the structure layer. This layer should be concentrated at the center of the new growth, extending up towards the cuticle and zigzagged down the nail. After applying the structure layer, refine it using a striper brush. Cure each nail for 30 seconds to prevent the builder from moving around, allowing you to concentrate on perfecting the next nail's structure.
With this technique, the quantity of builder gel required will depend on the existing volume from the previous fill, and each nail's unique needs. It's important to ensure that the existing builder base is as perfect as possible for a smooth infill application. Cure the whole hand for another 60 seconds once all the nails have been filled.
Now comes the most rewarding part — adding the top coat! Apply a generous amount of our SuperShine top coat, making sure not to make it too thin or too thick. Don't forget to cap the free edge for that professional finish. Repeat the process for all your nails, then cure them under the lamp for another 60 seconds.
The Wrap Up
And there you have it! The complete guide to infills, from prepping your nails to the final topcoat application. We hope you find this tutorial useful and informative. Remember, achieving perfect infills requires patience, practice, and a touch of finesse. Don't be disheartened if you don't get it right on your first try; keep practicing, and you'll get there in no time.
If you enjoyed this tutorial, please leave a comment and let us know! We love hearing from our readers and are always eager to provide the content you find most valuable. Until next time, happy nail art!
Note: All the curing times mentioned in this tutorial are based on the HONA Cordless Cube lamp. Curing times may differ if you use a different lamp. For more information, please check our website or the instructions provided with your lamp.